The weird, the wild, and the wacky came out to play at Berlin Alternative Fashion Week 2017, and it was a feast of visual delights and hypnotic moments. Berlin is a city known for its avant-garde designers and out-of-the-box collaborations, and this fashion week proved no different. A fashion week that is known to be unafraid in shying away from grotesque displays and controversy, we were overwhelmed with the creativity and ingenuity of the designers present. Bring on the freaks.
Jade Helen Designs – Brutal hearts
Brutal hearts started the show with lace, leather chokers and ankle boots. A display of flowing garments, exposing flesh and underwear. Fishtail dresses and high thigh cuts. Provocative and sensual. A high neck sparkling dress added to the glamour, while lace didn’t leave much to the imagination.
A dance evoking the inner creature and lust. Intoxicating makeup portraying the demonic self beautifully linked to the ritualistic gowns of the dancers. High necks, side splits and a geometric pattern base in a symbolic colour palette. The singer was hypnotising in a silk lightning jolt dress with bat arms linked to fingers. Ending with a tight black yet relaxed suit; platform high heels and mesh dinner jacket. An erotic tribal pleasure.
Amir Hasdan – Twelve pieces
Black, beige and brown – this collection saw an array of gowns, scarfs, caps and man dresses. Bomber jackets and high socks were utilised to draw in the distinctive Berliner. Arabic lettering and images of women in headscarves were prolific. High draping and layering gave a relaxed appearance, wrapping the models in seductive head scarves, with caps worn on top to add a casual street style element. Freedom. حرية
The bomber jacket – Tzuji gets it. A twist on his iconic silhouette saw fast Tokyo fashion prints with a trick; reversible to black, with added suspenders complete with a back zip. Rainbow foiling and two tone white/black tracksuits. Sparkle pants and sparkle jackets. The show wouldn’t be complete without the entire Tzuji team taking their signature selfie at the end of runway. Tag me Larry!
The weirdo puppet monster kids are here, and they are alive. Their giant mother monster harbouring them from its mouth. Pink sausage gowns, confetti bursts, wacky knits and UV lighting. Channeling the alien Yup Yup characters from Sesame Street with amazing headpieces, zany knits and padded bus. Colour explosion in a whacky monster hippy festival; sunflowers, water cans, and has anyone seen the dog?
Gothic space queen, high-energy opera. Towering black headpieces, 3D panelling forever; gold faces and next level makeup, with eyes to die for. A dark romance of gowns; exaggerated feather shoulders, couture garbage bag dresses, big arms and big hips that equalled true elegance.
Gender bending leather cut outs, chains, mesh and lace. Hitting down the runway in big black boots, carefree braids and dentistry head pieces. A red and black Gucci style snake featuring on the back of garments, riddled with safety pins and displaying a sense of high-end trash beauty. Side laced and patchwork denim mixed with a fast lipped female rapper. They don’t give a fuck.
Wax haired weirdos, neon circus, dribble paint and collage cut outs, of mouth and eyes. Two shy lovers holding hands presenting an eerie horror movie theme. Picasso style face-masks projected the overall whack of the show. Neon splattered paint, melted iron-on style lettering on a clean black aesthetic. Green snot roping on relaxed silhouettes. Weirdo town.
Coming straight out of a bondage latex sex party, with creatures of the night fulfilling every kink fantasy. Like a high-end sex toy; spines, spikes and ribbing. Hair whips, latex devils and industrial alien cyborgs for you to take your pick. Stomping boots and pleaser hells. Steamer.
Lu La Loop
Disgothteque; like a manic substance fuelled party, out came Lu La Loop. Tassels and rips with big personalities. Space is ace memory foam texture jackets, exaggerated sleeves, planet, alien and lightning bolt emojis served in a hyper movement. Oversized hoodies with the signature whack face, unique zip features and rave gear. Those exploding arms. Bam. Energy.
Freak Boutique London
Nancy boy, leather is in. ‘Fuck Off’, ‘You Smell’, ‘Eat Shit’ and ‘Cheap Cunt’ projected on love heart candies and chupa chups, plastered all over garments. Famously showing their signature leather jackets, leather pants and leather skirts with dripping pink goo in a slick style. These queer kids have attitude, you painted whore.
ZL by Zlisms
The game starts hard and heavy. The iconic Berlin black bomber with orange lining is really taken for a ride here, from the colour palette to a reverse bomber skirt. White oversized button down shirts, loud prints and iron-on transfers, tied together with orange straps and brand sashes. Play suits, orange trenches and relaxed pants gave a polished street style aesthetic. Neon orange lips were used to highlight each look, with the headpieces being reminiscent of a karate tournament.
Cue the gore house piano, with dancers dripping in blood interpreting their pain through solemn beauty. A funeral act. Black black black. Sexy lines, chains and power in anonymity; only ever one eye protruding. The condom style skirt, dress and tights a favourite, provocative; lube it up. Leg harnesses like an exoskeleton and asymmetric cuts. Pantless Grim Reaper ending, nice arse.
Thigh-high black leather platform shoes, fishnets, leather jockstraps and black hoods were worn by models who hypnotised the audience, repeatedly waving the flag of Matteo. Black scarf headpieces, ripped button pants, stone-cold gazes thrown in with tartan. Kermit green loose spandex pants and shirts gave an interesting juxtaposition to a key outfit; a latex red power suit, dragging sleeves and black knee to ground leg coverings. Aesthetically menacing. Rave style over-sized pants, bondage masks, chains and seduction. I’m joining the team.
Tata showed their signature mixed fabrication style with ruffles, mixed prints and UV green tutus. Lavish draping of fabrications, in a fresh and flirty image. Every garment as unique as the designer itself, from knitted neckpieces, motorbike print full silhouette dresses, and can-can arms. Tata dipped her models into a fabric remnants bargain bin basket and nailed it.
To close the runway, flashing light globes following dancing models proved enticing. Purple and orange straps on high waisted legless pants, eloquent sleeves, power coats and jacket style arm warmers. Plastic wrapped heads demanded attention, with bodice styled skirts and neck singlets. Power dressing for the modern day.
Reviews by Benji Chandler @blackkrsna www.blackkrsna.com.au
Photography Day 1 Xiaofu Wang @turdfacedbear
Photography Day 2 Javier Cerrada @hxxdz